Much as they are in skin care, European consumers are changing their hair care regimens to include a variety of targeted products for different hair and scalp conditions. As a result, the scope for product innovation is much wider, as companies extend their hair care portfolios to include serums, primers and even fillers, many of which would not look out of place on retail skin care shelves.

According to Canadean, sales of European hair care reached $16.8 billion in 2014 and are expected to reach $17.2 billion by the end of 2015. Russia is the fastest-growing hair care market, worth $2.0 billion, making it the second largest hair care market in Europe and topped only by Germany at $2.6 billion. Russia’s strong performance can be attributed to its high shampoo and hair colorant sales, although it lags behind in conditioners and styling agents. This reflects a relatively immature market, but one where there is good potential for growth in the type of care products that characterize other major European markets. 

Guys Opt Out of Shampoos
In terms of usage, Kantar Worldpanel records that nearly all European women use shampoo (on average 90% across the major markets), but only two-thirds of men use a shampoo for hair washing, reflecting a male preference for all-purpose shower gel.
Conditioner usage among men is almost negligible, apart from in Great Britain, where 1 in 10 men claim to use such products.
Although more established as part of women’s regular hair care routine, penetration of conditioner is much lower at 46% for the average. The opportunity to promote conditioner together with shampoo is highest in France, where only 30% of women use a separate product.

Brand messaging is important in targeting conditioner users in different countries. For example, in France, women use conditioners mainly to moisturize and add shine to hair, whereas nourishment is key in Poland and Germany. Polish women are also more likely to choose a conditioner according to its fragrance. Despite low conditioner usage among most European men, Russian men seem to be the most engaged, using conditioner primarily to moisturize, nourish the hair and leave it feeling silky and soft.

Oil with Everything
According to Canadean, split ends/dry hair is one of the top five hair care concerns of European women.

“Rather than turning to standard and conventional conditioning products, consumers are searching for different approaches rather than tried and tested methods,” maintained Jamie Mills, associate analyst, Canadean, who has noted an interest in hair oils from Asia, such as pure oils for hydration.

For example, argan oil is now incorporated in many mainstream conditioners, while more novel ingredients such as baobab oil are being used for their hair care benefits. Mills cited Schwarzkopf Gliss Six Miracle Oil Essence, launched in Turkey, as an example of conditioning innovation. It is a pure oil treatment designed to soften and condition the hair and features several exotic oils for nourishment and hydration, including pequi, marula, argan and monoi. L’Oréal Paris Extraordinary Oil is a hair care range of oils, oil-in-cream and oil mist for different hair types that is non-greasy and designed as a conditioning treatment.

The trend for extended hair care regimes is driven by more informed consumers who are aware of what they need for their specific hair type. According to Canadean Consumer’s Q4 global survey 2014, 40% of Europeans believed that products advertised for their skin or hair type make them feel that they are tailored to their needs.

Tailoring is already a popular and established method of targeting products, such as Dove Advanced Hair Series Quench Absolute Intense Replenishment Mask that has a mask that targets wavy and curly hair. Meanwhile, some brands have been adept at spotting targeted innovation opportunities, such as shampoos and conditioner ranges tailored by climate and lifestyle.

“This is an exciting approach given the diversity of these two factors across the European market,” observed Mills, citing Wella’s Pro-Series Winter Therapy conditioner, launched in Russia, that is designed to beat winter hair problems such as dryness and static hair, a common problem for Russian consumers during the harsh winter months.

Blurring Categories
While hair care has been traditionally associated with a multi-step approach involving shampoo, conditioner and styling products, knowledgeable consumers increasingly perceive their scalp and hair to be an extension of the skin.

“Taking cues from skin care, hair care products have certainly grown in complexity and there is definitely more scope for consumers to care for their hair in new ways by using additional ‘steps’, such as serums and masks,” observed Mills.

An example is Schwarzkopf Gliss Kur Hair Repair Hyaluron Hair Filler serum, launched in Poland, which is designed to improve hair volume like a skin care filler. Another is John Frieda’s Frizz Ease Forever Smooth Anti-Frizz Primer, designed to be used on wet hair and before styling, which is said to improve hair texture and fight the onset of frizz.

Originating in Asia, masks are a hot trend right now, straddling skin care and hair care. Asians regularly use masks in their daily beauty routines as skin or hair boosters. For example, L’Oréal Paris Elvive has a range of hair masks, including Elvive Triple Resist for fragile hair with a tendency to fall, and Elvive Extraordinary Oil Masque Balm based around six oily flower extracts to nourish dry hair by targeting dry ends.

Fashionable Hair Scents
Fragrance brands, including Chanel and Dior, have launched hair perfumes that contain less alcohol than perfume products and are formulated with beneficial ingredients to make hair shiny and soft. Chanel Chance is said to protect the hair while leaving it intensely perfumed with the scent of Chance Eau Fraiche.

Miss Dior’s Hair Mist similarly offers an intense fragrance, while refreshing and protecting the hair. This trend is not limited to fragrance brands, as there are several specialist examples of hair fragrance from Percy & Reed, Kérastase Chronologist, Oribe Cote d’Azur Hair Refresher and Show Beauty Hair Fragrance.

Product innovation is a key driver in the European hair care markets right now and is fueling plenty of future growth opportunities.

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Imogen Matthews
Headington, Oxford UK
Tel: +44 1865 764918

Imogen Matthews is a respected consultant, journalist and researcher focusing on trends in the beauty industry. She regularly contributes to many of the world’s foremost beauty trade titles. Every year in April, she publishes The Premium Market Report, focusing on trends in the UK premium beauty markets.
www.thepremiummarketreport.com